Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of cosmetics ingredient Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol

Jiejun Han; Rongyue Gong; Bin Wang; Tiangui Gong; Xueping Chen

doi:10.1111/jocd.16345

Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of cosmetics ingredient Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr 25. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16345. Online ahead of print.

Authors

Jiejun Han¹, Rongyue Gong¹, Bin Wang¹, Tiangui Gong¹, Xueping Chen^{2

3}

Affiliations

¹ MCL Skincare Ltd, Hangzhou, China.
² Centre for Biotech Big Data Research & Development, Research Institute of Tsinghua, Beijing, China.
³ Vitargent (International) Biotechnology Limited, Unit 516, 5/F. Biotech Centre 2, Hong Kong Science Park, Hong Kong SAR, China.

PMID: 38665039
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16345

Abstract

Background: Microencapsulation of hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) can improve its application in cosmetics.

Objective: To investigate the safety and efficacy of Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol, a HPR microcapsule containing 5%-10% peony seed oil, 0.01%-1% epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside (ECGG), and 0.1%-1% HPR.

Methods: The safety of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol was evaluated with zebrafish embryo self-rotation irritation test and developmental toxicity test. SymRenew™ HPR was used as a reference. The skin care efficacies of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol were evaluated using zebrafish embryos covering antioxidation, anti-inflammation, blood circulation, whitening, wound healing, skin barrier protection, Type I collagen, elastin, and 5α-reductase genes expression activities.

Results: The irritation test revealed that 250 μg/mL Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol did not, while 20 μg/mL SymRenew™ HPR significantly (p < 0.05) increased zebrafish embryo self-rotation frequency. The developmental toxicity test found the teratogenicity index (half lethal concentration/half toxicity concentration) of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol and SymRenew™ HPR were 1.9 and 3.1, respectively. The efficacy analysis results showed that 5 μg/mL Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol significantly (p < 0.05) exerted 7.1% anti-ROS, 20% anti-inflammation, 14% enhanced blood circulation, 10% suppressed melanin synthesis, 9% enhanced tail fin regeneration, 72% elicited skin barrier protection activity, enhanced the expression of Type I collagen genes col1a1, col1a2, and col1a2 by 34%, 51%, and 42%, respectively, and elastin gene elna by 46%, and suppressed the expression of 5α-reductase genes srd5a1, srd5a2a, and srd5a2b by 52%, 15%, and 30%, respectively.

Conclusion: This study demonstrated that Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol is a safe cosmetic ingredient with multi-skin care efficacies.

Keywords: HPR; Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol; skin barrier; toxicity; zebrafish embryo.