Comparative efficacy and safety of deoxyarbutin, a new tyrosinase-inhibiting agent

J Cosmet Sci. 2006 Jul-Aug;57(4):291-308.

Abstract

Several tyrosinase inhibitors have been developed and utilized to ameliorate various cutaneous hyperpigmentary disorders and complexion discolorations. Deoxyarbutin (dA) (i.e., 4-[(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl)oxy]phenol), designed using quantitative structure-activity relationships (QSAR), demonstrates effective inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase and skin-lightening capability (1). However, its comparative safety, effectiveness, and reversibility to other known tyrosinase inhibitors in human melanocytes had not been determined. The effect of dA was assessed in cultured human skin cells, on xenographs, and with a clinical trial. Using cultured human melanocytes, the maximum concentration of dA that allowed 95% viability was fourfold greater than for hydroquinone (HQ), indicating that dA is less cytotoxic/cytostatic than HQ. The viability of cultured human keratinocytes and fibroblasts was also less compromised by increasing concentrations of dA as opposed to HQ. At the maximum concentration allowing normal cellular viability, dA effectively inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content in human melanocytes, whereas HQ was marginally inhibitory. Upon removal of dA, tyrosinase activity and melanin content was normalized within five days. Topical application of dA on human xenografts resulted in a gradual and visually apparent skin lightening effect during an eight-week period. In a clinical trial, dA facilitated fading of pre-tanned skin to a statistically significant greater extent than either HQ or no treatment. These results demonstrate that dA is a potentially safe, effective, and reversible tyrosinase inhibitor.

Publication types

  • Clinical Trial
  • Comparative Study

MeSH terms

  • Administration, Topical
  • Adolescent
  • Adult
  • Animals
  • Arbutin / analogs & derivatives*
  • Arbutin / pharmacology
  • Biopsy
  • Cell Survival / drug effects
  • Female
  • Humans
  • Hydroquinones / pharmacology
  • Hyperpigmentation / drug therapy*
  • Hyperpigmentation / enzymology
  • Male
  • Melanocytes / drug effects
  • Melanocytes / metabolism
  • Mice
  • Mice, SCID
  • Middle Aged
  • Monophenol Monooxygenase / antagonists & inhibitors*
  • Monophenol Monooxygenase / metabolism
  • Skin / drug effects
  • Skin / enzymology
  • Skin Pigmentation / drug effects*
  • Specific Pathogen-Free Organisms
  • Transplantation, Heterologous

Substances

  • Hydroquinones
  • Arbutin
  • Monophenol Monooxygenase
  • deoxyarbutin
  • hydroquinone